Welcome to PondScape's Online Learning Center. This area is intended to give a basic explanation to new pond owners or soon-to-be pond owners. Here you can get definitions of products and their important role in your new pond. If you have technical questions beyond this basic area, please feel free to call us.

PondScape has been INSTALLING and SERVICING ponds for 13 years. We are not a basement company simply running a computer site while shipping all of our orders direct to bypass any overhead costs. PondScape employs a full time service crew, full time installation crew as well as a large retail outlet, this internet site, lake management and fountain technology. Each system we build relies on certain COMPONENTS to make it all work. These COMPONENTS have been broken down to the best of our ability help educate you, our customers.

WATER GARDENS: By far the largest group listed here. A WATER GARDEN pond is a CLOSED SYSTEM which recycles its contained water supply via a pump and plumbing. Any series of filters and components may be used in this system. Water gardens are meant to be a BALANCED ECOSYSTEM utilizing fish, plants, rocks, gravel, beneficial bacteria and filtration to create a natural looking pond with little or no exposed equipment. These ponds have the liner completely covered and all pipes and plumbing out of site. The COMPONENTS below are typical to a basic WATER GARDEN installation.

KOI POND: These ponds are also constructed using a closed system like the water gardens above. However, koi ponds rely on hi-tech filtration, UV sterilizers, usually straight drop-off pond walls and exposed liner. Koi ponds may be lined with pond liners or concrete. The idea of MOST koi ponds is to have absolute perfect water parameters for means of breeding and raising top quality fish. This of course does not mean that any of the other types of ponds listed here are not capable of raising koi and other fish. However, it is the primary objective for this style pond. MOST koi ponds will have unattractive plumbing, pumps and liner showing since hiding these components is not a priority to MOST koi ponds. Some newer developments are mixing the KOI POND style with the traditional WATER GARDENS listed above. We like to call these "HYBRID KOI PONDS". The COMPONENTS below are typical to a basic KOI POND installation.

Concrete Ponds:  Older ponds are traditionally made of concrete. This building method is rarely seen in new pond construction but was once popular before all of the new pond technology began to develop about 15 years ago. Concrete ponds are difficult to maintain by relying on a natural balance. This type of pond should use different chemicals, specialized filtration and moderate maintenance to thrive.

Mud Ponds / Dirt-Bottom Ponds & Lakes: We often refer to retention ponds and farm ponds simply as LAKES. Because this is not a CLOSED SYSTEM, it is very difficult to keep them sparkling clear like a water garden. However, we do offer products to keep these systems healthy and attractive with little maintenance. A LAKE or MUD POND does not use any means of liner. Water may seep into the soil or flow out down streams if equipped. Some may have drainage lines or streams that flow into them. This is called an OPEN SYSTEM,  which means the water is constantly being flushed out and replenished. Even a lake pond without streams is still considered OPEN, as water will slowly seep out into the ground.

Preformed Ponds: Found at most home improvement stores, these tub-like ponds require minimal investment. They are very difficult to keep clean due to the limited filtration but are a good way to enter the hobby on a budget.

COMPONENT DEFINITIONS:

Skimmer Filter: Deposits surface debris in easy-to-remove bag and breaks the surface tension for a cleaner pond. Skimmers "skim" the surface removing leaves and debris before allowing it to waterlog and sink to the pond bottom to decompose. Skimmers hold you pump, keeping the pump hidden from view while removing large debris MECHANICALLY before it can clog your pump. Skimmer filters are know as a means of mechanical filtration and can be cleaned as often as necessary without the fear of disrupting a biological balance. When choosing a skimmer be sure to get the correct size face plate (water intake opening) to coincide with the size pump you will use. Most skimmers will list their GPH (gallons per hour capable of flowing) rating in the specs. Most skimmers are installed outside of the pond. They are dug into the ground and the lid/cover is set at ground level. The pond liner is seamed to the skimmer's opening where it draws in the water. Some skimmers can be used inside the pond for difficult installations such as concrete or preformed ponds.

Standard Skimmer Type         In Pond Type

Biofalls Filter: Disappears from view by becoming a waterfall! Bacteria live inside, cleaning the water. Requires only yearly cleaning. The bacteria grow and reproduce within any form of BIO-MEDIA, such as lava rock, bio balls, bio spheres, etc. Choose a biofalls filter based on the width of your waterfall desired as well as the GPH it can handle. Be sure its large enough to hold enough bacteria to filter your pond size.
 

Pressure Filter: can be installed below or above water level due to there sealed chambers. Most pressure filters utilize a series of different densities of foam mesh to help trap solids and promote biological filtration. High-end models have easy cleaning handles and newer innovations are 100% self-cleaning.

Gravity Filter: must be use at or above water level. These units discharge water by gravity and must be sized with the proper pump. Gravity filters "slow-down" the water as it enters, allowing debris to settle and easily be removed by the filter.

Bottom Drain: are used at the lowest pond in large or deep ponds especially with koi hobbyists. Bottom drains help circulate water from the lowest point of the pond through your filter for more even oxygen exchange.

Solids Filter: are mainly seen in the aquaculture industry for large overloaded holding systems. These filters are becoming more popular with koi hobbyists as well. They usually incorporate some type of vortex technology that spins the water inside allowing the heavier solids to fall to the bottom and be trapped for removal.

Aerator: can be defined as any device that adds oxygen to the water. Usually, an aerator is an air pump or compressor that forces are via tubing to a lower area in a pond or lake. The air bubbles then travel to the surface creating a water column and saturating the water molecules as the bubbles rise. Certain large fountain are also used as a form of aeration.

Fountain: Fountains can be seen any any size imaginable. From a trickling small backyard display to those that shoot over 100 feet in the air at a golf resort.

Lighting: extends your enjoyment into the night. Small lights are available for the backyard water garden. Low voltage lights are the most popular for the hobbyist and are typically seen in 10watt and 20watt halogen models. Newer technology uses LED lighting and high output lighting for larger displays.

Pump: Your pump is the heart of the ecosystem. You have many choices when purchasing a pump. Most WATER GARDENS use a SUBMERSIBLE PUMP inside a skimmer filter. Most pumps are priced based on their electrical efficiency. In other words, you either pay for the pump, or you pay the electric bill. Some cheaper pumps are great for a lower budget but remember that these cheaper pumps will consume more power and usually have a shorter life. Most water gardens use mag-drive pumps, asynchronous pumps or direct drive pumps. Mag-drive pumps generate flow by ways of an electro-magnetic impeller and are extremely energy efficient and are great for low-head (not far lengths of tubing). Mag-drive pumps are typically used on small fountains, small waterfalls and spitting statues. Because they quickly lose their "lift" power, we do not recommend these pumps for most waterfalls in water gardens.

Asynchronous pumps are great for average waterfalls and are also very energy efficient. These pumps rely on a wet-rotor design which allows the motor to be cycled through different voltages regulating the flow. They are not as powerful as a direct drive pump but have become increasingly popular in most applications under 3000gph. These pumps have long life expectancies and can tolerate 'dirty' electricity that may not be available in certain installations.

External pumps are usually not used in water gardens but are being seen more and more with HYBRID PONDS. They are very energy efficient but may require certain enclosures to keep them out of the elements. Other models are rated for wet installations.

Direct-drive pumps are the most popular for water gardens. These pumps are derived from sump pump technology and incorporate an oil or air-cooled motor (sealed watertight) and a volute housing an impeller assembly. Basically the motor is directly attached to the impeller though a means of shafts and seals. They can pump massive flows and have little pressure loss when compared to the previous two pump styles. Direct drive pumps are becoming more and more energy efficient with new technology and are excellent for high-head waterfall applications.

Plumbing: Be sure to choose the correct size tubing/piping applicable to your pump. Here is a break down of flow rates through individual tubing sizes:

Max Flow (GPH)      Tubing (inside Dia.)
 300                         1/2"
 720                         3/4"
 1200                         1"
 2000                       1-1/4"
 3000                       1-1/2"
 4800                         2"
 6000                       2-1/2"
 9000                         3"
 12,000                      4"

Tubing is available in several types. Vinyl tubing is the least expensive and is only to be use on very small pumps running small fountains and ornaments.

Kink-free tubing is a popular type used by most do-it-yourselfers. It is easily cut and secured to connections using clamps.

Flexible PVC piping is the choice for most pond professionals. It is secured to connections by the use of special PVC cement and resists the drag of friction loss and multiple fittings.

Rigid white PVC pipe can also be used but is frowned upon in most installations due to the amount of fittings used to make turns and connections. This causes probable leak points and back pressure resulting in slower pump flows.

UV Clarifier:  This unit is used to clear green water. An ultraviolet bulb is housed in a stand-alone unit encased in a test tube (quartz tube). Water flows through the unit around the test tube and the ultraviolet light is emitted though the glass. This UV light disrupts the DNA of most invertebrates that pass through the tube (when used as a sterilizer rather than a clarifier) but is mainly aimed at eliminating suspended algae. This form of algae is what makes up green "pea-soup" water. UV clarifiers are very effective on unbalanced ponds and those with continuous suspended algae problems. They are NOT effective against string algae and blanket weed and will only work on the micro-organisms that actually flow through the unit. Do not confuse UV clarifiers with UV sterilizers (used in the aquarium industry). UV sterilizers kill ALL micro-organisms that pass through it (not just algae). For this to be true in a pond, a much larger and higher wattage UV unit would be needed and very cost-prohibitive.

Underlayment: When installing a rubber liner of any type, be sure to fist line the area with UNDERLAYMENT PADDING. Typically, needle-punched underlayment is the choice for Pro's. Underlayment will cover all of the pond, not just the bottom like sand. Remember, sand will not adhere to pond walls. Underlayment is fairly cheap around 30¢ a sq.ft.

Liner: Pond liner is available in several forms such as EPDM rubber, polypropylene, polyethylene or PVC liners. EPDM rubber is by far the most popular pond liner. EPDM (ethylene propylene diene terpolymer) Rubber in the pond industry is fish safe and should not be confused with roofing liner. Roof liner is cured at the factory in a different process, some which may use chemicals harmful to aquatic life. EPDM is very flexible, very elastic and forgiving. It is fairly inexpensive and easy to use. EPDM is available up to 50'x100' but is very heavy in larger sizes. It is available in 45mil and 60mil thicknesses. One "MIL" is 1/10 of a millimeter or 0.1254 millimeters. 45mil and 40mil EPDM rubber liner is the most popular used in all ponds by far. The 60mil EPDM is rarely used but only asked for in heavy duty waterfall applications and is extremely expensive. PVC liner is very flimsy and can be found at most hardware stores for different projects. It is mainly used in swimming pools and swim-ponds locally but has increased popularity in ponds throughout Europe. It is not as cost effective in the U.S. for ponds. Polypropylene and polyethylene liners are typically used in larger lakes where EPDM is not large enough or is too heavy to work with.

Rocks are an important component in installing a water garden. Rocks will cover the vertical walls of the pond liner and will hide and protect the rubber liner. Rocks will also grow microscopic colonies of beneficial bacteria aiding in debris decomposition and overall water quality. Although rocks are very appealing in a BALANCED WATER GARDEN, they can actually trap debris in an incorrectly, unbalanced water garden or HYBRID KOI POND.

Gravel plays the same role as rocks in a WATER GARDEN by covering the horizontal surfaces and locking it all together. The same bacteria will also colonize throughout the gravel. A thin layer is recommended in a balanced system only! The pond and koi hobbyists have been arguing for years about if rocks and gravel should be used in a pond. We don't care! Our "Clear Water Guarantee" systems will work either way. It's up to you! Do you want to see bare liner or a graveled bottom?

Fish are actually a component in a balanced ecosystem! Fish nibble at plants and release waste in the form of ammonia. Ammonia is toxic at certain levels but is consumed and transformed by beneficial bacteria in your filters and gravel. As the bacteria consume the ammonia, it is converted to nitrite which is then consumed by other bacteria and transformed into nitrates. The nitrates (also harmful at high levels) are released back to the water where the...

Plants can consume these nitrates as a form of nutrition... can you see the balanced cycle now?